Appendix A: Quick-Reference Emergency and Maintenance Cards
How to use this appendix. These cards are designed for moments when you do not have time to read. Scan the bold headers, find your situation, follow the steps. Fill in every blank line with your actual phone numbers and account information before you need it.
Print this appendix. Keep one copy in the kitchen junk drawer and one in your electrical panel area. A PDF on your phone is a backup, not a primary — you may not have power or data when you need this most.
A.1 Plumbing Emergency Card
First 5 Minutes
Stop the water first. Think second.
- Locate and close the main water shutoff valve. Most homes have one of the following: - Basement or crawlspace: where the water supply line enters the foundation wall - Utility room or mechanical room: typically near the water heater - Outside the house: a curb stop or meter box at the property line (requires a meter key tool)
- Once water is off, open the lowest faucet in the house (usually a laundry tub or hose bib) to drain remaining pressure from the pipes.
- If there is standing water near electrical outlets, panels, or appliances — do not enter until the circuit is off at the breaker.
Write your main shutoff location here:
Main shutoff valve location: _______________________________________________
Write the curb stop / meter location here:
Curb stop location: _______________________________________________________
Is This an Emergency or Just Urgent? Decision Tree
START: Is water actively flowing where it should not be?
- YES → Is it more than a drip or slow leak?
- YES → Shut off main water now. Call 24-hour emergency plumber.
- NO → Place a bucket. Call during business hours.
- NO → Is the problem sewage backup, gas smell, or flooding from an appliance?
- SEWAGE → Do not use any drain. Call 24-hour emergency plumber.
- GAS SMELL → Leave house immediately. See Section A.3.
- APPLIANCE → Shut off supply valve behind appliance. Call during business hours.
Common Plumbing Emergencies: Immediate Response
Burst Pipe 1. Close main shutoff valve immediately. 2. Turn off power to any circuits in the affected area at the breaker panel. 3. Move valuables and documents away from water path. 4. Take photos for insurance before cleanup begins. 5. Open faucets to relieve remaining pressure. 6. Call emergency plumber. 7. Do NOT attempt permanent repair yourself — burst pipes usually indicate a larger pressure, temperature, or corrosion issue.
Overflowing Toilet (Will Not Stop) 1. Remove the tank lid. Push the flapper (rubber seal at the tank bottom) down with your hand — this stops flow into the bowl immediately. 2. Turn the shutoff valve behind the toilet clockwise to close (it is on the wall or floor behind the bowl). 3. If neither works: close the main shutoff. 4. Do not flush again. 5. If overflow contains sewage solids, do not clean up without rubber gloves and eye protection. 6. Plunge with a flange plunger (the type with an extended rubber cup). If not cleared in 5 minutes, call a plumber — you likely have a blockage deep in the drain line.
No Hot Water 1. Check that the water heater is receiving power (electric) or that the pilot light is lit (gas). 2. Electric water heater: check the circuit breaker — water heaters often have a dedicated 240V double-pole breaker. 3. Gas water heater: follow manufacturer relight instructions on the unit label. If you smell gas, do not relight — leave and call gas company. 4. Press the red reset button on electric water heaters (usually behind a panel on the unit). 5. If no improvement: call a plumber during business hours. Water heaters over 12 years old may need replacement, not repair.
Sewage Backup 1. Stop using all drains immediately — toilets, sinks, tubs, dishwasher, washing machine. 2. Do not flush any toilet in the house. 3. If sewage is in a basement floor drain or tub: do not enter the area without rubber boots — raw sewage is a serious biohazard. 4. Call a 24-hour emergency plumber. Sewage backups indicate a blockage in the main sewer line or a septic failure — this is not a DIY repair. 5. Contact your homeowner's insurance promptly. Sewage backup coverage is often a rider — check your policy now. 6. Document everything with photos before any cleanup.
Water Heater Leaking 1. Close the cold water inlet valve on top of the water heater (turn clockwise). 2. Turn off the power supply: flip the dedicated breaker (electric) or turn the gas valve to "pilot" position (gas). 3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the base of the heater and run it to a floor drain or outside. 4. Open a hot water faucet somewhere in the house to allow air in and let the tank drain. 5. Call a plumber. A leaking water heater tank cannot be patched — it must be replaced. Leaks from fittings and valves can sometimes be repaired. 6. If water heater is in a finished area: check for water damage to drywall, flooring, and subfloor.
When to Call: 24-Hour Emergency vs. Business Hours
| Situation | Call When |
|---|---|
| Burst pipe with active flooding | 24-hour emergency — now |
| Sewage backup | 24-hour emergency — now |
| Main sewer line blocked (multiple drains backing up) | 24-hour emergency — now |
| Water heater leaking from tank body | Same day — schedule as soon as possible |
| No hot water (not gas-smell related) | Business hours |
| Single slow leak from supply line | Business hours |
| Single clogged drain | Business hours or DIY |
| Running toilet or dripping faucet | Business hours or DIY |
Emergency Contacts — Fill In Before You Need Them
24-Hour Emergency Plumber: ______________________________ Ph: ________________
Backup Emergency Plumber: ______________________________ Ph: ________________
Water Utility (main cutoff): ______________________________ Ph: ________________
Homeowner's Insurance: ______________________________ Policy #: ___________
Insurance Claims Line: ______________________________ Ph: ________________
A.2 Electrical Emergency Card
First 5 Minutes
Never touch electrical components with wet hands or while standing in water.
- If anyone has been shocked: do not touch them while they are still in contact with the source. Disconnect power at the breaker first.
- If you smell burning with no visible source: do not assume it will resolve. Locate your electrical panel and be prepared to shut off circuits.
- Your electrical panel is the first line of defense. Know its location now.
Write your panel location here:
Main electrical panel location: ____________________________________________
Write your subpanel location(s) here (if applicable):
Subpanel location: ________________________________________________________
Emergency vs. Fault: Decision Tree
START: Is there a burning smell, visible sparks, or smoke?
- YES, and smell is strong or smoke is visible → Evacuate. Call 911.
- YES, but brief flash from outlet and smell faded → Do not use that outlet. Turn off its circuit at breaker. Call electrician next business day.
- NO → Is the problem loss of power to part or all of the house?
- ALL POWER OUT → Check neighboring homes. If they are also dark: call utility company. If only your house: check main breaker.
- PARTIAL POWER OUT → Check breaker panel for tripped breakers. See below.
Common Electrical Emergencies: Immediate Response
Burning Smell with No Visible Source 1. Take it seriously. Electrical fires inside walls have no visible flame until they break through. 2. Touch wall outlets and switch plates lightly with the back of your hand. Warmth indicates a problem. 3. Check your electrical panel for any breakers that have tripped. 4. If smell is persistent or strengthening: evacuate and call 911. Do not re-enter. 5. If smell dissipates after you locate and turn off a specific circuit: call a licensed electrician the same day. Do not restore that circuit until it is inspected.
Sparks or Flash from Outlet or Panel 1. A brief spark when plugging something in is often normal (capacitive load effect). One time, faded, no smell: observe and report to electrician at next opportunity. 2. Sustained sparking, arcing sounds, or sparks at the main panel: shut off the main breaker immediately and call a licensed electrician. Do not reset. 3. Sparks accompanied by burning smell: evacuate, call 911. 4. Never insert anything into an outlet that sparked repeatedly. Replace it.
Outlet Not Working 1. Test the outlet with a lamp or phone charger you know works. 2. Check if the outlet is controlled by a wall switch (some living room outlets are switched). 3. Look for a tripped GFCI outlet nearby — in bathrooms, kitchens, garages, and outdoors, a tripped GFCI outlet can disable downstream outlets. Press the "RESET" button on any GFCI outlet in the same area. 4. Check the breaker panel for a tripped breaker (a tripped breaker sits in the middle position between ON and OFF — push it fully to OFF, then back to ON). 5. If the breaker is not tripped and the GFCI reset does not help: the outlet itself may have failed. Call an electrician.
Breaker Keeps Tripping 1. A breaker that trips once may have been overloaded. Unplug items from that circuit, reset, and distribute the load. 2. A breaker that trips repeatedly after reset is telling you something: either the circuit is chronically overloaded, a device on the circuit has a fault, or the breaker itself is failing. 3. Do not repeatedly reset a breaker that trips within seconds. This can damage wiring. 4. Never replace a breaker with a higher-amperage breaker to stop tripping — this is a fire hazard and a code violation. 5. Call an electrician to diagnose. This is not an immediate emergency unless accompanied by burning smell or heat at the panel.
Power Out to Part of House 1. Identify which rooms or circuits are affected. 2. Go to the breaker panel. Look for any breakers in the middle (tripped) position. 3. Reset: push the tripped breaker fully to OFF first, then back to ON. 4. If it trips again immediately: leave it off and call an electrician. 5. If no breakers appear tripped but lights are out: check GFCIs in bathrooms and kitchen. Also check any inline fuse holders for major appliances. 6. 240V circuits (dryer, range, AC) can lose one "leg" of power — the circuit may show power at one slot but not both. This requires a utility company call.
Power Out to All of House 1. Check your utility company's outage map or call the outage line before doing anything else. 2. At the panel: the main breaker is the large double-pole breaker at the top. Verify it has not tripped. 3. If power is out to your house only and the main breaker is on: there may be an issue with the service entrance (the line from the utility pole to your meter). This is the utility company's responsibility — call them. 4. If you have a generator: do not back-feed into the house from a generator without a proper transfer switch. This is illegal and can electrocute utility workers.
When to Evacuate vs. When to Troubleshoot
Evacuate immediately and call 911 if: - Persistent burning smell that does not go away after shutting off circuits - Visible smoke from walls, outlets, or panel - Sparks at the main panel - Anyone has been shocked and is unresponsive
Troubleshoot yourself if: - Single outlet not working (GFCI reset, breaker check) - Breaker tripped once with no smell or heat - All power out and utility outage is confirmed
Call electrician same day if: - Burning smell that resolved when you shut off a circuit - Breaker trips repeatedly - Warm outlets, switches, or cover plates - Any wiring that looks scorched, discolored, or melted
Emergency Contacts — Fill In Before You Need Them
Licensed Electrician (24-hr): ____________________________ Ph: ________________
Licensed Electrician (day): ____________________________ Ph: ________________
Electric Utility Outage Line: ____________________________ Ph: ________________
Electric Utility Account #: ____________________________
Homeowner's Insurance: ____________________________ Ph: ________________
A.3 HVAC Emergency Card
No Heat in Winter
Immediate steps: 1. Set thermostat to HEAT mode and raise setpoint 5 degrees above current room temperature. 2. Check the furnace power switch (looks like a light switch on or near the furnace) — it is sometimes accidentally turned off. 3. Check the circuit breaker for the furnace and air handler. 4. Check the furnace filter: a completely clogged filter can cause the furnace to shut down on high-limit. Replace it. 5. Check the condensate drain line (high-efficiency furnaces): a clogged drain trips a safety float switch. Clear the drain and reset. 6. Gas furnace: verify the gas valve is open and the pilot or igniter is operating. 7. If none of this works: call HVAC contractor.
Temperature threshold for emergency: Below 32°F outside with no heat indoors is a pipe-freeze emergency. Do not wait for morning. Call a 24-hour HVAC service.
Interim heating: Space heaters in interior rooms, keep cabinet doors under sinks open, let faucets drip slowly to prevent pipe freeze. Never use a gas range or oven for space heating.
No Cooling in Extreme Heat
Immediate steps: 1. Verify thermostat is in COOL mode, set 3–5 degrees below current room temp. 2. Check circuit breakers for both the air handler (indoor unit) and the condenser (outdoor unit) — AC systems often have two separate breakers. 3. Check the air filter — a clogged filter causes ice buildup and shutdown. 4. Look at the outdoor condenser unit: if it is covered in ice, shut the system off and run FAN ONLY for 2–4 hours to thaw. 5. Check that the condensate drain is not clogged (water overflow shuts some systems down). 6. Verify the outdoor unit is clear of debris and the fins are not blocked.
Temperature threshold for emergency: Heat index above 100°F with no cooling is a health emergency for elderly occupants, infants, and those with medical conditions. Arrange alternative accommodation if repair is not immediate.
Gas Smell — This Is an Emergency
THIS IS AN EMERGENCY. Do not troubleshoot. Do not flip light switches. Do not use your phone inside the building.
- Get everyone out of the house immediately, including pets.
- Leave the door open as you exit.
- Do not flip any light switches or electrical devices on or off.
- Do not use your phone until you are outside and away from the house.
- Once outside: call your gas utility emergency line from the street or a neighbor's house.
- Do not re-enter until the utility company has inspected and cleared the building.
- If you cannot reach gas company: call 911.
Gas Utility Emergency Line: ________________________________ Ph: ________________
Carbon Monoxide Alarm — Immediate Action
CO is colorless and odorless. When the alarm sounds, treat it as real every time.
- Get everyone out of the house immediately, including pets.
- Leave doors open as you exit.
- Call 911 from outside.
- Do not re-enter for any reason until emergency responders clear the building.
- Seek medical evaluation if anyone has headache, nausea, dizziness, or confusion — these are CO poisoning symptoms and can develop quickly.
After the all-clear: Have a qualified HVAC technician inspect all combustion appliances (furnace, water heater, gas range, fireplace, attached garage) before relighting or using any of them.
Furnace Won't Start — Troubleshooting Flowchart
Furnace not running?
|
v
Is thermostat set to HEAT, above room temp?
NO --> Set correctly, wait 3 min
YES --> Continue
|
v
Is furnace power switch ON?
NO --> Switch on, wait 3 min
YES --> Continue
|
v
Is furnace circuit breaker ON?
NO --> Reset breaker, wait 3 min
YES --> Continue
|
v
Is air filter extremely dirty?
YES --> Replace filter, reset system
NO --> Continue
|
v
Is condensate drain clogged? (high-efficiency only)
YES --> Clear drain, reset float switch
NO --> Continue
|
v
Gas furnace: Is gas valve open? Is pilot lit?
NO --> Open valve; relight per label instructions
YES --> Continue
|
v
Check furnace diagnostic LED codes (inside panel door)
Look up code in manual or on door label
|
v
Still not running? --> Call HVAC technician
AC Troubleshooting Flowchart
AC not cooling?
|
v
Is thermostat in COOL mode, set below room temp?
NO --> Correct setting, wait 5 min
YES --> Continue
|
v
Is air handler breaker AND condenser breaker on?
NO --> Reset both, wait 10 min (compressor lockout)
YES --> Continue
|
v
Is air filter clean?
NO --> Replace filter
YES --> Continue
|
v
Is outdoor condenser unit running (fan spinning)?
NO --> Capacitor or contactor failure -- call HVAC tech
YES --> Continue
|
v
Is indoor air handler coil frozen (ice visible)?
YES --> Shut off cooling, run fan only 2-4 hours, then restart
NO --> Continue
|
v
Is condensate drain overflowing (float switch tripped)?
YES --> Clear drain, reset
NO --> Continue
|
v
Blowing warm air with everything running?
--> Low refrigerant or compressor issue -- call HVAC tech
Emergency Contacts — Fill In Before You Need Them
HVAC Contractor (24-hr): ____________________________ Ph: ________________
HVAC Contractor (day): ____________________________ Ph: ________________
Gas Utility Emergency: ____________________________ Ph: ________________
Gas Utility Account #: ____________________________
Propane Supplier: ____________________________ Ph: ________________
A.4 Exterior and Weather Emergency Card
Storm Damage: Immediate Response
Personal safety first. Never go on a roof during or immediately after a storm.
- Stay inside until the storm has fully passed. Do not assess exterior damage while wind is still active.
- Once weather is clear: assess from the ground before getting on any ladder.
- Document everything with photos and video before making any temporary repairs.
Making temporary repairs safely:
Roof tarp (missing shingles, small breach): - Use a minimum 6-mil polyethylene tarp. Extend it at least 4 feet up past the ridge if possible. - Secure with sandbags, furring strips, or roofing nails through the tarp into structural members — not just into shingles. - Do not tarp in wet, icy, or windy conditions. Wait for safe conditions or hire a contractor. - A temporary tarp is not a permanent repair. Schedule a roofer within days, not weeks.
Broken window (temporary seal): - Cover with heavy-duty plastic sheeting and tape, or plywood cut to fit. - Nail plywood to the exterior frame using 2-inch nails. - Do not leave an opening unsealed overnight — water intrusion causes mold within 24–48 hours.
Downed tree on structure: - Do not attempt to remove a tree from a structure yourself. Call a tree service with structural experience. - If tree has breached roof: tarp only the area not covered by the tree until professionals arrive. - Be aware of downed utility lines — maintain 30-foot clearance until utility company confirms lines are dead.
Flood: First Response Protocol
Before entering a flooded area: 1. Confirm utilities are off: main power shutoff and gas valve. 2. Do not enter standing water if electrical service has not been confirmed off. 3. Wear rubber boots and waterproof gloves. 4. Be aware that floodwater is contaminated — treat it as sewage.
Documentation for insurance (do this before cleanup): - Photograph and video every room, every affected item, every visible structural element. - Photograph items from multiple angles. Include serial numbers and model numbers of appliances if accessible. - Make a written list as you go: room, item, estimated replacement value. - Do not discard anything until it has been documented and your insurance adjuster has authorized removal. - File your claim immediately — do not wait for complete assessment.
Immediate water extraction: - Use a wet-dry vacuum or submersible pump for standing water. - Open windows and run dehumidifiers and fans as soon as standing water is removed. - Mold begins growing in 24–48 hours in wet drywall, insulation, and flooring. - Remove wet carpet, pad, and drywall within 24–48 hours if drying cannot be confirmed. - Call a water damage restoration company if the area is larger than one room.
Post-Disaster Safety Checklist Before Re-Entering a Home
Do not re-enter until you can answer YES to all of the following:
- [ ] No visible structural damage to foundation, load-bearing walls, or roof structure
- [ ] Utility company has confirmed power lines are safe
- [ ] Gas utility has confirmed no gas leak (or gas is confirmed off)
- [ ] No standing water in contact with electrical panels or outlets
- [ ] No visible sagging or bulging of ceiling (water pooling above ceiling)
- [ ] No smell of gas upon approach
- [ ] Local authorities have confirmed re-entry is permitted (mandatory evacuation lifted)
- [ ] You have adequate lighting (flashlights) — do not use open flame
- [ ] You have a way to exit if conditions change unexpectedly
If a structural engineer or inspector advises against entry: comply.
Emergency Contacts — Fill In Before You Need Them
Insurance Company: ____________________________ Ph: ________________
Insurance Claims Line: ____________________________ Ph: ________________
Policy Number: ____________________________
FEMA Assistance: 1-800-621-FEMA (3362)
Local Emergency Mgmt: ____________________________ Ph: ________________
Tree Service (24-hr): ____________________________ Ph: ________________
Water Damage Restoration: ____________________________ Ph: ________________
Electric Utility (emergencies): __________________________ Ph: ________________
Gas Utility (emergencies): ____________________________ Ph: ________________
A.5 Annual Maintenance Master Checklist
How to use this checklist. Every task below is assigned a month or season, an estimated time, and a DIY/Pro recommendation. A task marked PRO can often be done DIY if you have the skills and comfort level — the designation indicates what most homeowners should consider.
Print this page and check off tasks as you complete them. Log completed work in the Home Maintenance Log (Appendix B.3).
MONTHLY
| Task | Why It Matters | Est. Time | DIY/Pro |
|---|---|---|---|
| Test smoke detectors | Battery death is silent; detector failure means no warning | 5 min | DIY |
| Test CO detectors | CO poisoning kills before you know it's happening | 5 min | DIY |
| Check HVAC filter | Dirty filters reduce efficiency and cause system failures | 5 min | DIY |
| Inspect under sinks for leaks | Early detection prevents cabinet rot and mold | 5 min | DIY |
| Run water in unused fixtures | Traps dry out and allow sewer gas entry; flush infrequently used toilets | 5 min | DIY |
QUARTERLY (Every 3 Months)
| Task | Why It Matters | Est. Time | DIY/Pro |
|---|---|---|---|
| Replace HVAC filter (if 1" type) | 1-inch filters clog in 30–90 days depending on use | 10 min | DIY |
| Test GFCI outlets | GFCIs can fail without tripping; test all bathrooms, kitchen, garage, exterior | 15 min | DIY |
| Inspect fire extinguishers | Pressure gauge must be in green zone; check for physical damage | 5 min | DIY |
| Clean refrigerator door gaskets | Dirty gaskets fail to seal; compressor overworks | 10 min | DIY |
| Check water softener salt level | Running dry damages the resin; salt bridges waste salt | 5 min | DIY |
SPRING (March–April)
| Task | Why It Matters | Est. Time | DIY/Pro |
|---|---|---|---|
| HVAC tune-up (cooling season prep) | A tuned AC unit uses 15–25% less energy and lasts longer | 1–2 hr | PRO |
| Replace HVAC filter (2" or 4" if not quarterly) | Spring allergens load filters fast | 10 min | DIY |
| Gutter cleaning | Spring cleaning removes winter debris before spring rains | 2–4 hr | DIY/PRO |
| Roof inspection | Winter damage (lifted shingles, flashing gaps) must be caught early | 30 min | DIY (ground only); PRO for on-roof |
| Exterior caulk inspection | Freeze-thaw cycles crack caulk; reseal before rain season | 1–2 hr | DIY |
| Inspect window and door weatherstripping | Damaged seals allow water and air infiltration | 30 min | DIY |
| Check foundation perimeter drainage | Ensure soil slopes away from foundation; no standing water at walls | 30 min | DIY |
| Service lawn irrigation system | Flush, test heads, check for winter damage | 1–2 hr | DIY/PRO |
| Inspect deck/porch for rot and loose fasteners | Winter moisture causes wood decay; loose fasteners create safety hazard | 1 hr | DIY |
| Flush outdoor hose bibbs (if winterized) | Confirm operation before garden season | 10 min | DIY |
| Test sump pump | Pour water into pit; confirm pump activates | 15 min | DIY |
| Check attic for signs of winter ice dam damage | Water stains, mold, damaged insulation | 30 min | DIY |
| Dryer vent cleaning (if not done in fall) | Lint buildup is a leading cause of house fires | 30–45 min | DIY/PRO |
SUMMER (June–July)
| Task | Why It Matters | Est. Time | DIY/Pro |
|---|---|---|---|
| Replace HVAC filter (2" or 4") | Peak cooling season — filter loads fast | 10 min | DIY |
| Check AC condensate drain line | Algae growth clogs drain; overflow can flood ceiling or cause system shutdown | 15 min | DIY |
| Inspect exterior paint and siding | Summer reveals peeling paint and cracks; address before fall rains | 1 hr | DIY |
| Test attic ventilation | Blocked vents trap heat; raises cooling loads and damages shingles | 30 min | DIY |
| Inspect and clean kitchen exhaust fan | Grease buildup is a fire hazard; reduced airflow causes cooking moisture problems | 20 min | DIY |
| Check concrete walks and driveway for cracks | Fill cracks before winter freeze-thaw expands them | 1–2 hr | DIY |
FALL (September–October)
| Task | Why It Matters | Est. Time | DIY/Pro |
|---|---|---|---|
| HVAC tune-up (heating season prep) | A tuned furnace is safer, more efficient, and less likely to fail on the coldest night | 1–2 hr | PRO |
| Replace HVAC filter | Clean filter at start of heating season | 10 min | DIY |
| Gutter cleaning | Remove fallen leaves before they cause ice dams and blockages | 2–4 hr | DIY/PRO |
| Dryer vent cleaning | Annual cleaning minimum; more if you dry frequently | 30–45 min | DIY/PRO |
| Chimney inspection and cleaning | Creosote buildup causes chimney fires; blockages cause CO buildup | 1–2 hr | PRO |
| Reverse ceiling fans (clockwise in winter) | Circulates warm air from ceiling down; reduces heating bills | 5 min | DIY |
| Winterize outdoor irrigation | Prevents burst pipes in freeze-prone climates | 30 min–2 hr | DIY/PRO |
| Disconnect and drain garden hoses | Hoses left on can freeze and burst the hose bibb | 10 min | DIY |
| Insulate exposed pipes in unheated spaces | Prevent freeze and burst during cold snaps | 1–3 hr | DIY |
| Inspect attic insulation depth | Inadequate insulation is the top cause of ice dams and high heating bills | 30 min | DIY |
| Caulk around windows and doors (exterior) | Air sealing reduces heating costs; prevents water intrusion | 1–2 hr | DIY |
| Test smoke and CO detectors; replace batteries | Annual battery replacement before heating season when CO risks increase | 15 min | DIY |
| Bathroom exhaust fan cleaning | Lint and dust reduce airflow; moisture damage follows | 20 min | DIY |
WINTER (December–January)
| Task | Why It Matters | Est. Time | DIY/Pro |
|---|---|---|---|
| Check for ice dams (after first snow) | Ice dams force water under shingles; ceiling leaks follow | 15 min | DIY (observation) |
| Monitor exposed pipes in cold snaps | Know which pipes to run as a drip; know where to shut off if one freezes | 5 min daily | DIY |
| Replace HVAC filter | Mid-season filter change for heavy heating use | 10 min | DIY |
| Inspect and clean humidifier (if whole-house type) | Scale buildup reduces effectiveness; mold in water panel is a health hazard | 30 min | DIY |
| Test garage door safety reversal feature | Place a 2x4 flat on the floor; door must reverse on contact | 5 min | DIY |
ANNUAL (Schedule Once Per Year — Month Flexible)
| Task | Why It Matters | Est. Time | DIY/Pro |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water heater flush and inspection | Sediment reduces efficiency and shortens life; inspect anode rod | 30–60 min | DIY/PRO |
| Exercise main water shutoff valve | Valves that sit unused for years can seize; test annually so it works in emergencies | 5 min | DIY |
| Refrigerator coil cleaning | Dirty coils make the compressor work harder; reduces lifespan | 20 min | DIY |
| Garage door spring lubrication | Springs and rollers need lubrication; neglected hardware fails suddenly | 15 min | DIY |
| Whole-house water filter replacement (if applicable) | Per manufacturer recommendation — typically 6–12 months | 15 min | DIY |
| Pest inspection | Early detection of termite and rodent activity prevents structural damage | 1 hr | PRO |
| Septic system inspection and pumping (every 3–5 yrs) | Full septic tanks back up without warning; pumping is far cheaper than replacement | 1–2 hr | PRO |
| Radon test (every 2 years in moderate-risk areas) | Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer; levels change over time | 48 hr passive test | DIY (test kit) |
| GFCI outlet replacement (every 10–15 years) | GFCIs degrade; older units may not trip when required | 2–4 hr | DIY/PRO |
| Smoke detector replacement (every 10 years) | Sensors degrade; most detectors have a 10-year expiration date stamped on the back | 30 min | DIY |
| CO detector replacement (every 5–7 years) | Electrochemical sensors have a finite life regardless of battery status | 15 min | DIY |
| Water heater anode rod inspection (every 3–5 yrs) | Depleted anode rods allow tank corrosion; replacement extends heater life significantly | 30–60 min | DIY/PRO |
Keep completed records in Appendix B.3, Home Maintenance Log. Dated records protect you in warranty disputes, insurance claims, and at resale.