Chapter 2 Exercises

These exercises focus on observation, documentation, and analysis of your home's foundation. Some require physical access to your foundation (basement, crawlspace, or exterior perimeter). Work safely — never enter a confined space alone if there is any possibility of hazard (standing water, known mold, pest activity, gas odors).

Exercise 2.1 — Identify Your Foundation Type

Objective: Determine your home's foundation type(s) and document the basic configuration.

Time: 30–60 minutes

What to do:

  1. Walk the exterior perimeter of your home. Look at the transition between the building and the grade (ground level). Is the siding sitting on a concrete or masonry wall that extends into the ground (stem wall or basement wall)? Or does the siding appear to start very close to the ground, suggesting a slab?

  2. Check your home's basement or interior: does the first-floor floor have any access to a space below? (A door to a crawlspace, stairs to a basement, a floor hatch?)

  3. If you have a basement or crawlspace: access it safely. Note the foundation wall material (poured concrete, concrete block, stone rubble).

  4. Based on your observations, determine whether your foundation is: - Slab-on-grade (no basement or crawlspace) - Crawlspace (some below-floor space, usually less than 4 feet) - Full basement (fully usable space below grade) - Partial basement/crawlspace combination - Pier and beam (beams supported on individual concrete or masonry piers, common in some southern and historic homes)

Record: Foundation type, wall material, approximate age of construction.

Exercise 2.2 — The Foundation Perimeter Walk

Objective: Document the condition of your foundation's visible exterior.

Time: 45 minutes

What to do: Walk slowly around the entire exterior perimeter of your home, examining the foundation wall at the grade line. For each side of the building, note:

  • Any visible cracks (describe type: hairline, wide, vertical, horizontal, diagonal)
  • Any staining or white mineral deposits (efflorescence)
  • The grading: is the ground sloping away from the house or toward it?
  • Downspout locations and where they discharge
  • Any vegetation planted close to the foundation
  • Any areas where the foundation wall appears to be bowing or displaced

Photograph every crack and every drainage concern. A wide-angle photo establishing context, then a close-up of each issue.

Classify each crack you find using the guidance from Section 2.5: - Likely shrinkage/cosmetic - Requires monitoring - Warrants professional evaluation

Exercise 2.3 — The Drainage Audit

Objective: Evaluate how well water is being directed away from your foundation.

Time: 30 minutes, plus observation during next rainfall

What to do:

  1. Walk the perimeter and place a long level (or use a phone level app) on the soil at several points to check slope direction. Does the grade fall away from the house?

  2. Locate all downspout discharge points. Where does the water go? Is it within 6 feet of the foundation? Does it discharge toward any door, window well, or low point in the grade?

  3. If possible, observe the house during a significant rainfall — or simply look for evidence after one: water stains on the foundation, erosion patterns, pooling areas.

  4. Identify any areas where grading is reversed (sloping toward the house) and note the locations.

Plan: For each drainage problem identified, note the approximate correction needed (re-grade, downspout extension, window well drain). Chapter 2 provides cost ranges for these corrections.

Exercise 2.4 — Crack Monitoring Setup

Objective: Establish a monitoring system for any foundation cracks you've identified.

Time: 30 minutes

What to do: For any crack you identified in Exercise 2.2 that warrants monitoring:

  1. Using a permanent marker, draw a short line at each end of the crack and write the date next to it.

  2. Photograph the crack with a ruler in frame for scale.

  3. Record the approximate width of the crack at its widest point.

  4. Set a calendar reminder to re-photograph the crack in 6 months and again in 12 months.

  5. For each monitored crack, note: does the crack appear to have any vertical displacement (is one side higher than the other)?

Threshold for action: If any crack grows more than 1/8 inch in width in six months, or if vertical displacement exceeds 1/4 inch, seek professional evaluation.

Exercise 2.5 — Crawlspace Inspection (For Crawlspace Foundations)

Objective: Conduct a thorough annual-style crawlspace inspection.

Time: 45–90 minutes

Prerequisites: Appropriate safety gear (knee pads, disposable coveralls, work gloves, headlamp, N95 respirator if any mold is suspected). Do NOT enter if there is standing water or if you see signs of active gas leaks or significant hazardous materials.

What to do:

  1. At the access hatch: check the hatch condition (rot, seal quality).

  2. Shine your light across the full space before entering. Note any visible standing water, white mold patches, large debris.

  3. Enter and work systematically from one end to the other. For each section: - Probe the sill plate (the wood member on top of the foundation wall) with an awl or screwdriver. Solid? Or soft/punky? - Probe the rim joist (the board at the end of the floor joists) similarly. - Look at the underside of the floor sheathing for staining, mold, or insulation fall-down. - Check that all posts and piers are plumb and solid on their footings.

  4. Note moisture evidence: soil staining, condensation on pipes, damp insulation.

  5. Look for pest evidence: mud tubes (termites), sawdust piles (carpenter insects), rodent droppings.

  6. Photograph everything unusual.

After: If you found any soft wood, active mold, standing water, or pest evidence — this is not a DIY fix situation. Call a pest control company (for termites or carpenter ants), a wood rot remediation specialist, or a crawlspace contractor as appropriate.

Exercise 2.6 — Frost Depth Research

Objective: Understand the frost depth for your location and whether your foundation footings are likely compliant.

Time: 20 minutes

What to do:

  1. Search "[your city/county] frost depth building code" to find the code-required footing depth for your jurisdiction.

  2. If you have access to any construction documents or permits for your home (from county records), check whether the footing depth is specified.

  3. If you have a basement, your footings are almost certainly below frost depth. If you have a crawlspace, the stem wall footing depth matters — if your home experiences frost heave (seasonal movement of the foundation), inadequate footing depth may be the cause.

Note: This is informational — you likely can't change your footing depth without major work. But understanding your frost depth helps you interpret any seasonal foundation movement you observe.

Exercise 2.7 — Interior Symptoms Assessment

Objective: Check your home's interior for signs of differential settlement or foundation movement.

Time: 30 minutes

What to do:

  1. Doors: Open and close every interior and exterior door. Note any that stick, any that don't latch properly, or any that have been shaved at the top or bottom (evidence of past door adjustment — which may mean past movement).

  2. Windows: Try to operate every window. Note any that stick, are difficult to open, or appear out of square (the frame is no longer rectangular).

  3. Floors: Roll a small ball or marble across each room. Does it roll toward a particular direction? Place a level on the floor. Record any floor slopes greater than 1/4 inch over 6 feet.

  4. Walls and ceilings: Look for diagonal cracks running from the corners of window and door openings. These are a signature symptom of differential settlement. Note width, length, and whether they appear recent or long-standing (freshly repainted cracks may indicate previous repairs).

  5. Gaps: Look for gaps between walls and ceilings or walls and floors, particularly in corners.

Triage your findings: Seasonal sticking (one door sticks in summer, fine in winter) is normal wood movement. Multiple sticky doors, multiple diagonal drywall cracks, and visible floor slope together suggest foundation movement worth investigating.

Exercise 2.8 — The Slab Moisture Test (For Slab Homes)

Objective: Determine whether moisture vapor is migrating through your slab.

Time: 3 days elapsed time, 15 minutes active

Materials: Plastic sheeting (about 18 inches square), duct tape.

What to do:

  1. Remove any floor covering from a test area (or test in a closet or area with bare concrete).

  2. Clean the slab surface and let it dry for 24 hours.

  3. Tape a sheet of plastic firmly to the slab surface on all four edges, creating an airtight seal.

  4. Leave for 48–72 hours.

  5. Remove the plastic and examine the underside and the slab surface beneath it. Condensation or visible moisture indicates moisture vapor transmission through the slab.

Why it matters: Floating floors (laminate, engineered wood, vinyl plank), carpet with pad, and hardwood flooring can all fail prematurely if installed over a slab with active moisture vapor transmission. If this test shows moisture, address it before installing any new flooring.

Exercise 2.9 — Research Local Soil Conditions

Objective: Understand the soil type under your home and what risks it presents.

Time: 30 minutes

What to do:

  1. The USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) maintains a Web Soil Survey at websoilsurvey.sc.egov.usda.gov — you can enter your address and get a soil type map and description for your specific property.

  2. Look up the soil type listed for your property and note: - Is it well-drained or poorly drained? - Does it have a shrink-swell rating (relevant for expansive clay conditions)? - What is the estimated available water capacity?

  3. Cross-reference this with any foundation symptoms you've observed. Expansive clay soils combined with seasonal moisture variation? Classic conditions for slab cracking and differential settlement.

Exercise 2.10 — Waterproofing and Drainage System Assessment

Objective: Evaluate any existing waterproofing or drainage systems in your basement or crawlspace.

Time: 30–45 minutes

What to do (for basements):

  1. Look for interior drain channels around the perimeter of the basement floor — these are typically a 4-6 inch plastic channel embedded in a narrow cut in the concrete, leading to a sump pit.

  2. Locate the sump pit (usually in a corner or low spot). Does it have a sump pump? Is the pump operational? (Pour a bucket of water in — does the pump activate?)

  3. Check the sump pump discharge line: where does it exit the building? Does it discharge far enough from the foundation that water won't immediately re-enter the soil?

  4. Look for any evidence of past water intrusion: staining on walls, white mineral deposits (efflorescence), damage to any stored items.

For crawlspaces:

  1. Is there a vapor barrier? What condition is it in — intact, torn, incomplete?

  2. Are foundation vents present and open, or are they sealed? (Sealed vents with a good vapor barrier is the modern encapsulated approach.)

  3. Is there a crawlspace dehumidifier?