Chapter 6 Key Takeaways: Your Home's Water Supply
The Single Most Important Action
Find and test your main shutoff valve today. Before you need it in an emergency, locate the valve that stops all water flow into your house, confirm it operates freely, and tell every adult in the household where it is. This five-minute task can prevent thousands of dollars in water damage.
The Municipal System
- Your utility delivers treated, pressurized water to your meter. Everything from the meter into the house is your responsibility.
- The service line from the meter to the house is typically your responsibility, even the section under your yard.
- Annual water quality reports (Consumer Confidence Reports) are publicly available from your utility and tell you exactly what's in your water.
Pipe Materials: What They Mean
| Material | Key fact | Action if present |
|---|---|---|
| Galvanized steel | Corrodes from inside; over 50 years old, likely severely restricted | Budget for repiping; check for localized sections even if mainly copper |
| Copper (pre-1986) | Lead solder at joints may leach | Test tap water for lead; flush 30–60 sec before drinking |
| Copper (post-1986) | Excellent; watch for pinhole corrosion in high-chloramine water | Inspect joints annually for green staining |
| CPVC | Good track record; becomes brittle with age | Handle carefully during renovation work in older homes |
| PEX | Modern standard; flexible and freeze-resistant | No special concern; verify NSF 61 certification |
Water Pressure: The Numbers
- Normal range: 40–80 PSI
- Ideal: 60 PSI
- Below 40 PSI: Investigate PRV failure, pipe restriction, municipal supply
- Above 80 PSI: High risk of fixture and appliance damage; install PRV
- How to test: $10–$20 gauge on any hose bib or washing machine connection
Common Pressure Problem Sources (Check in Order)
- Municipal supply (call utility, check with neighbor)
- Pressure reducing valve failing (open or closed)
- Galvanized pipe corrosion narrowing pipes
- Partially closed main shutoff
- Clogged aerators or showerheads (single fixture only)
Protective Devices
Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV): - Steps down high municipal pressure to safe levels - Required if incoming pressure exceeds 80 PSI - Lifespan: 10–20 years; replace when pressure deviates from setpoint - Cost to install: $200–$400
Expansion Tank: - Required in any closed system (one with a backflow preventer) - Absorbs pressure from thermal expansion of heated water - Air charge should be checked every 1–3 years - Cost installed: $150–$350; check air charge annually yourself
Well Systems (Private Water Supply)
The pressure tank: Stores water between pump cycles; the air bladder maintains pressure. Bladder failure causes short-cycling (pump runs every few seconds). Check with a magnet test (hollow section should sound different from water-filled sections) and Schrader valve test.
The pump: Submersible pumps last 15–25 years. They fail by motor burnout, worn impellers, or failed check valves. Never let a well pump run dry.
Annual well maintenance checklist: - Test water: bacteria, nitrates, pH at minimum - Inspect wellhead for physical integrity - Check pressure tank air charge - Listen for abnormal cycling patterns
Well owner mantra: You are the utility. Test the water, inspect the equipment, and know your system.
Water Quality Essentials
- Hard water (above 7 GPG / 120 mg/L): Common in 85% of U.S. homes; causes scale in pipes and appliances; not a health risk but expensive if untreated
- Lead: Test your tap water if home was built/plumbed before 1986
- Well water: Test annually; county health departments often offer free testing
- Filter to the problem: Get a water test first; then choose a filter rated by NSF for your specific contaminants
Cost Reference
| Item | Typical Cost Range |
|---|---|
| Water pressure gauge | $10–$20 |
| Replace gate valve with ball valve (main shutoff) | $150–$300 |
| Replace fixture shutoff valves (per valve) | $80–$150 |
| Install pressure reducing valve | $200–$400 |
| Install expansion tank | $150–$350 |
| Whole-house repiping (galvanized to PEX or copper) | $4,000–$15,000 |
| Replace well pressure tank (professional) | $500–$1,200 |
| Replace submersible well pump (professional) | $1,500–$3,000 |
| Basic water quality test (lab) | $100–$300 |