Chapter 15 Exercises: Lighting

These exercises are designed to build practical skills and reinforce the concepts covered in this chapter. Most can be completed in your own home with minimal tools.

Exercise 15.1: Bulb Audit

Objective: Inventory every light bulb in your home and identify opportunities for LED upgrades.

What you need: Pen, paper (or a spreadsheet), ladder (for high fixtures)

Steps: 1. Go room by room and record every light source: the fixture type, bulb type (incandescent, CFL, LED, halogen), wattage, and whether it works. 2. For any non-LED bulbs, note the equivalent lumen output you want (use the chart in Section 15.1 as a reference). 3. Calculate your current lighting energy use: add up all bulb wattages and multiply by your average hours of daily use. 4. Calculate what you'd use with all LEDs (divide current wattage by ~8 to estimate equivalent LED wattage). 5. Using your electricity rate (found on your utility bill), calculate annual savings from a full LED conversion.

Expected outcome: A clear picture of your current lighting mix and a documented financial case for any remaining upgrades.

Exercise 15.2: Color Temperature Evaluation

Objective: Understand how color temperature affects the feel of your spaces.

What you need: At minimum two LED bulbs of different color temperatures (e.g., 2700K and 4000K), a lamp you can easily access

Steps: 1. Purchase two A19 LED bulbs of the same wattage but different color temperatures. Common combinations to compare: 2700K vs. 3000K (subtle), or 2700K vs. 5000K (dramatic). 2. Install the 2700K bulb in a table lamp in your living room or bedroom. Observe the quality of light for 10 minutes. 3. Swap in the higher color temperature bulb without changing anything else. Observe for another 10 minutes. 4. Write down your impressions: how does the room feel differently? Does your skin tone look different? Does the room feel more or less welcoming? 5. Return to the 2700K bulb and compare your notes.

Reflection question: If you found one clearly preferable, check all the bulbs in that room. Are they all the same color temperature? If not, what would it take to standardize them?

Exercise 15.3: CRI Comparison Test

Objective: Experience the difference between low-CRI and high-CRI lighting.

What you need: Two bulbs of the same color temperature but different CRI ratings. Many hardware stores carry both standard (CRI 80) and "high CRI" or "color accurate" (CRI 90+) versions of common LED bulbs.

Steps: 1. Choose a colorful object to use as your test subject — a piece of fresh fruit, a red tomato, a colorful magazine cover, or a swatch of fabric work well. 2. In a room with no other light sources active, illuminate the object with each bulb in turn (use the same lamp, same distance). 3. Compare how the colors appear under each bulb. 4. If possible, move the object to a window in natural daylight and compare again.

Expected outcome: Under high-CRI light, colors should appear more saturated, more accurate, and more similar to how they look in natural daylight. Red tones in particular are often noticeably improved.

Exercise 15.4: Recessed Fixture Inspection

Objective: Determine whether your recessed lights are IC-rated and properly sealed.

What you need: Flashlight, screwdriver (flathead or Phillips, depending on your fixtures), non-contact voltage tester

Safety first: Turn off the circuit breaker for the lights before removing any trim. Verify with a voltage tester that power is off.

Steps: 1. Identify all recessed light fixtures in your home, especially in rooms below an attic or insulated ceiling space. 2. Turn off the circuit breaker for each fixture. 3. Remove the trim ring (typically held by springs — push up, then pull down on two sides to release). 4. Shine a flashlight inside and look for a label. What does it say? 5. If you have attic access, go into the attic and look at the tops of the cans. Is insulation resting against them? Can you see light through the can from above? 6. Record your findings: IC or non-IC? Evidence of insulation contact? Visible air gaps?

If you find non-IC fixtures in an insulated ceiling: Research LED retrofit kits (IC-rated) for your fixture size (typically 4" or 6"). Estimate the cost to replace all affected fixtures.

Exercise 15.5: Dimmer Compatibility Test

Objective: Determine whether your existing dimmers are compatible with your LED bulbs.

What you need: The dimmer switch (leave it in place), your current LED bulbs

Steps: 1. Turn all dimmer-controlled lights in your home to full brightness. Note whether any bulbs flicker or buzz. 2. Slowly dim each circuit from 100% to 10%. Note: - At what point (if any) does flickering begin? - Is there any buzzing from the switch or bulb? - Does the light "drop out" (go dark suddenly instead of fading)? - Is the dimming range smooth, or does it jump? 3. For any problematic dimmers, remove the cover plate (power on is fine for looking — don't touch wires) and look for the brand name and model number on the switch. 4. Look up your dimmer model on the manufacturer's compatibility tool (Lutron and Leviton both have these online).

Action step: If your dimmer isn't on the compatibility list for your bulbs, note the cost of an LED-compatible replacement ($20–35 for a standard dimmer).

Exercise 15.6: Ceiling Fan Direction Verification

Objective: Confirm your ceiling fans are in the correct direction for the current season.

What you need: Access to your ceiling fan's direction switch (on the motor housing)

Steps: 1. Stand directly under each ceiling fan while it's running on medium or high speed. 2. Do you feel a noticeable downward airflow on your skin? If yes, the fan is in summer/forward mode (counterclockwise from below). 3. If you feel little to no downward draft but notice some air movement along the walls, it's in winter/reverse mode (clockwise from below). 4. Check whether the current setting matches the current season. 5. To change direction: turn the fan off and wait for the blades to stop completely. Locate the direction switch on the motor housing (usually a small slider). Flip it. Restart the fan.

Bonus step: Look up whether your fan remote or wall control has a direction setting — many modern fans allow direction change from the remote without climbing a ladder.

Exercise 15.7: Outdoor Lighting Evaluation

Objective: Assess whether your outdoor lighting adequately covers entry points, pathways, and potential security concerns.

Steps: 1. After dark, walk around the exterior of your home and note: - Are all entry doors well-lit? - Are pathways between parking and entries safely lit? - Are there any dark "blind spots" along the perimeter? - Are any dark corners that would provide concealment accessible from street level? 2. Return inside and look at your outdoor fixtures: - Are any fixtures dead or malfunctioning? - Do photocell-controlled lights actually turn on at dusk? (Test by covering the photocell sensor briefly during daylight — it should trigger the light.) - Do motion-activated lights cover the areas you intended? 3. Note any deficiencies: missing coverage areas, failed sensors, outdated fixtures.

Reflection: Outdoor lighting that deters opportunistic intrusion and prevents trips/falls on dark pathways is a safety investment, not just an aesthetic one. What would it cost to address your documented gaps?

Exercise 15.8: LED Retrofit Kit Installation Practice

Objective: Replace one recessed light with an LED retrofit kit (recommended for non-IC fixtures or simply to upgrade efficiency).

What you need: LED retrofit kit matched to your can size (4" or 6"), screwdriver, non-contact voltage tester

Safety first: Turn off the circuit breaker for the fixture. Verify power is off with a non-contact voltage tester at the socket before touching anything.

Steps: 1. Turn off the breaker and verify power is off. 2. Remove the existing trim and bulb. 3. Unpack the retrofit kit. Familiarize yourself with the parts: the LED disc, the driver (small rectangular component), the connector cord, and the spring clips. 4. Plug the driver's connector cord into the existing socket inside the can. 5. Tuck the driver into the can. 6. Extend the spring clips on the LED disc outward. 7. Fit the disc up into the can opening and release the spring clips — they grip the inside of the can. 8. Restore power at the breaker and test.

Expected time: 5–10 minutes per fixture once you've done the first one.

Expected cost: $15–30 per fixture. Compare to a professional installation cost of $75–150 per fixture.

Exercise 15.9: Troubleshooting a Non-Working Fixture

Objective: Systematically diagnose why a light isn't working.

What you need: Non-contact voltage tester, replacement bulb you know works

Steps: Work through the troubleshooting sequence from Section 15.7: 1. Is the circuit breaker tripped? Check and reset if needed. 2. Is there a GFCI outlet upstream on the circuit? Look for outlets with TEST/RESET buttons near the fixture (or on the same circuit). Press RESET on any you find. 3. Try a replacement bulb you know works. 4. With power off at the breaker, check whether the switch connections are tight. Any discoloration, burning smell, or loose wires warrant a switch replacement. 5. With power off, check the wire connections at the fixture.

Document your findings: Which step solved the problem? This is practice for real troubleshooting situations.

Exercise 15.10: Lighting Plan for One Room

Objective: Apply professional lighting design principles to redesign the lighting in one room.

What you need: Graph paper or a room sketch, ruler, reference to Section 15.2

Steps: 1. Choose a kitchen or bathroom — rooms where lighting quality matters most. 2. Sketch the room to scale. 3. Calculate the desired total lumen output (Section 15.2 rule of thumb: 20–25 lumens per square foot for general lighting; kitchens may want more). 4. Identify the three lighting types you're working with: - Ambient: General overall illumination (recessed or ceiling fixture) - Task: Focused light for work areas (under-cabinet, pendant over island) - Accent: Decorative or highlighting (toe-kick LED strip, cabinet lighting) 5. Specify fixture types, color temperature (90+ CRI recommended for kitchens/baths), and control type (dimmer? switch? motion sensor?). 6. Calculate total wattage for the new design.

Reflection: How does your new plan compare to the existing lighting? What would installation cost (materials + professional labor if needed)?