Chapter 6 Exercises: Your Home's Water Supply

These exercises are designed to be done in your actual home. Most require no tools beyond a phone camera, a notepad, and a basic water pressure gauge (available for under $20 at any hardware store). Complete them sequentially — each one builds your knowledge of your own water supply system.

Exercise 6.1: Main Shutoff Scavenger Hunt

Estimated time: 15–30 minutes Materials needed: Phone with flashlight, notepad

Task: 1. Locate your water meter. Note where it is: inside the house (basement, utility room), outside in a pit, or on an exterior wall. 2. Locate the main shutoff valve on the house side of the meter. Note its type: gate valve (round wheel handle) or ball valve (lever handle). 3. Test the valve. Turn it fully closed (clockwise for gate valve; lever perpendicular to pipe for ball valve), then fully open. Does it move freely? Does it require excessive force? Does it stop cleanly in the closed position? 4. After reopening, check one or two faucets to confirm water is flowing normally. 5. Take a photo of the valve location and text it to anyone else who is responsible for the house.

Record your findings: - Meter location: ___ - Shutoff valve type: gate / ball - Shutoff valve condition: moves freely / stiff but functional / won't move (needs service) - Individual fixture shutoffs: have I checked under each sink? Y / N

Exercise 6.2: Identifying Your Pipe Materials

Estimated time: 20–30 minutes Materials needed: Phone camera, small magnet (fridge magnet works)

Task: 1. Go to the area where your water service enters the house (basement, utility room, or crawl space). Look at the supply pipes running from the meter into the house. 2. Identify the pipe material using these tests: - Copper: reddish-orange metallic color, soldered joints, non-magnetic - Galvanized steel: grey metallic, threaded fittings, magnetic (your fridge magnet will stick to it) - CPVC: cream or light yellow rigid plastic, solvent-welded fittings - PEX: flexible, color-coded (red = hot, blue = cold), connecting with crimp rings or push-fit fittings 3. Walk through accessible areas of the house (under sinks, in the basement) and note whether the same material is used throughout, or whether you see a mix. 4. Look at any joints or fittings: do you see any green staining (copper corrosion), orange rust staining (galvanized corrosion), or white mineral deposits (possible slow leaks)?

Record your findings: - Main supply pipe material: __ - Secondary/branch pipe materials: __ - Any visible corrosion or staining: __ - Estimated age of the plumbing (from when the home was built or last plumbed): __

Exercise 6.3: Water Pressure Baseline Test

Estimated time: 15 minutes Materials needed: Water pressure gauge ($10–$20, hardware store), notepad

Task: 1. Make sure no water is being used anywhere in the house (no washing machine running, no irrigation, no one showering). 2. Thread the gauge onto a hose bib (outdoor faucet) or washing machine connection. Hand-tighten only. 3. Turn the faucet fully open. Read and record the static pressure. 4. Now turn on a kitchen faucet inside and watch the gauge while the kitchen faucet runs. Read and record the dynamic pressure (with flow). 5. Turn off the kitchen faucet. Note how quickly the pressure returns to static.

Record your findings: - Static pressure (no flow): ___ PSI - Dynamic pressure (with one faucet open): ___ PSI - Pressure drop: ___ PSI

Interpret your results: - Under 40 PSI: low pressure; investigate PRV, pipe condition, or call utility - 40–80 PSI: normal range - Over 80 PSI: high pressure; consider installing or adjusting PRV - Pressure drop over 15 PSI when one faucet opens: possible restriction in supply system

Exercise 6.4: The Top-Floor Pressure Check

Estimated time: 10 minutes Materials needed: Water pressure gauge

Task: Pressure drops with elevation — water pressure decreases by approximately 0.43 PSI for every foot of rise. This exercise helps you understand whether your upper-floor pressure is within an acceptable range.

  1. Connect the pressure gauge to a hose bib or washing machine connection on the lowest level of your home. Record static pressure.
  2. If you have a washing machine or outdoor faucet on an upper level, test pressure there as well and compare.
  3. If pressure at upper-floor fixtures (shower, sinks) feels noticeably weak, note the elevation difference and calculate expected pressure drop (number of feet of rise × 0.43 PSI).

Think about: - Is the pressure drop you're experiencing consistent with elevation alone? - Or is it greater than expected, suggesting a restriction in the pipes serving the upper floor?

Exercise 6.5: Flush the Aerators

Estimated time: 30–45 minutes Materials needed: Adjustable pliers (with cloth to protect finish), white vinegar, small bowl

Task: Mineral deposits accumulate in the aerator screens at the tip of every faucet, reducing flow over time. This exercise removes those deposits.

  1. For each kitchen and bathroom sink faucet: - Unscrew the aerator from the faucet tip (counterclockwise; use pliers padded with a cloth to avoid scratching). Note: some aerators are internal and require a special key — check if the faucet has a recessed tip. - Disassemble the aerator: remove the screen, flow restrictor, and housing. Note the order of pieces. - Soak all metal and rubber pieces in white vinegar for 10–15 minutes. - Scrub with an old toothbrush to remove loosened scale. - Rinse and reassemble. - Compare the flow rate before and after.
  2. Repeat for any showerheads: submerge in a bag of white vinegar overnight, or soak the removable showerhead in a bowl of vinegar.

Record your findings: - Number of aerators cleaned: ___ - Any aerators with significantly restricted flow or broken parts (may need replacement): ___

Exercise 6.6: Read Your Water Meter

Estimated time: 10 minutes Materials needed: Notepad

Task: Your water meter is a diagnostic tool, not just a billing device. A basic leak check using the meter is one of the most valuable habits a homeowner can develop.

  1. Make sure no water is being used anywhere in the house.
  2. Locate your water meter and read its current reading. Most meters display cubic feet or gallons as a series of digits; record the full reading.
  3. Wait 30 minutes without using any water.
  4. Read the meter again. If the reading has changed, water is being used somewhere in the house — this indicates a leak. Common culprits: running toilet, dripping faucet, leaking irrigation system, or water softener cycling.
  5. Check the low-flow indicator (a small triangle or star that rotates with even tiny amounts of flow) — if this is spinning with no fixtures open, you have a leak.

Record your findings: - Initial reading: ___ (units: cubic feet / gallons) - Reading after 30 minutes: ___ - Change: ___ (should be zero) - Low-flow indicator spinning with everything off: Yes / No

Exercise 6.7: Inspect the Pressure Reducing Valve

Estimated time: 15 minutes Materials needed: Pressure gauge, flashlight

Task: If your home has a PRV (a bell-shaped brass fitting on the main supply pipe, usually just downstream of the main shutoff), this exercise checks its function.

  1. Locate the PRV. It should be on the cold water main supply pipe, typically in the basement or utility room, between the main shutoff and the water heater.
  2. If you don't have a PRV and your static pressure test from Exercise 6.3 showed more than 80 PSI, note this as a finding that may need correction.
  3. If you have a PRV, note whether there is an adjustment screw on top (typically a locknut and an adjustment bolt). Do not adjust it without knowing the target pressure and checking the current pressure first.
  4. Test pressure upstream of the PRV (if accessible) and downstream. The downstream pressure should be your set pressure (typically 50–70 PSI). If downstream pressure is much higher or lower than 50–70 PSI, the PRV may need adjustment or replacement.

Exercise 6.8: Well System Inspection (Well Owners Only)

Estimated time: 30–45 minutes Materials needed: Pressure gauge, flashlight, notepad, tire pressure gauge

Task: If your home uses a private well, this exercise walks you through a basic condition assessment.

  1. Pressure tank air check: - Locate the pressure tank (typically in the basement or utility room near the pressure switch). - Note the pressure switch settings (the numbers on the switch cover indicate cut-in/cut-out pressure, e.g., "30-50"). - Turn off the pump (flip the breaker labeled "well pump" or "water pump"). - Drain water pressure from the system by opening a faucet until flow stops. - Locate the Schrader valve on the pressure tank (like a tire valve). Using a tire gauge, check the air pre-charge pressure. It should be 2 PSI below the cut-in pressure (e.g., 28 PSI for a 30-50 system). - If the air pressure is significantly low, the bladder may be compromised — note this for follow-up. - Restore power and refill the system.

  2. Short-cycling check: - With the pump running and the system refilling, listen to how frequently the pump cycles on and off. - A healthy system with a good-size pressure tank should run for several minutes to refill, then stay off for several minutes as you use water. If it cycles on and off every few seconds, the pressure tank bladder has likely failed.

  3. Wellhead inspection: - Locate the wellhead outside (the capped pipe or structure at ground level above the well). Check that the cap is secured and undamaged. - Check that there is no ponding water around the wellhead that could indicate surface water intrusion.

Exercise 6.9: Water Quality Review

Estimated time: 20 minutes Materials needed: Computer or phone

For municipal water users: 1. Find your utility's most recent Consumer Confidence Report (CCR) / Annual Water Quality Report. It's usually available on the utility's website or was mailed to you. Search "[your city/utility name] water quality report." 2. Find the reported lead level. Is it non-detect, or is there a detected level? If your home has pre-1986 plumbing, compare this to EPA's action level of 15 parts per billion. 3. Find the reported hardness level (may be expressed as GPG or mg/L calcium carbonate). Above 7 GPG (120 mg/L) is hard water. 4. Note any contaminants with Maximum Contaminant Level (MCL) violations in the past year.

For well water users: 1. When was your water last tested? If more than one year ago, schedule a test for bacteria and nitrates at a minimum. 2. Find your county health department's website and check whether they offer free or subsidized water testing. 3. Note any changes in taste, smell, or appearance since the last test.

Exercise 6.10: Locating and Labeling Fixture Shutoffs

Estimated time: 30 minutes Materials needed: Painter's tape and marker (optional but helpful)

Task: Every sink, toilet, and appliance in your home should have an individual shutoff valve. This exercise locates and tests each one.

  1. For each bathroom sink and kitchen sink: open the cabinet doors under the sink. Locate the hot and cold supply valves (typically chrome angle valves or straight stop valves on the wall or floor). Test each by turning clockwise until closed, then counterclockwise until fully open. They should move smoothly.
  2. For each toilet: the supply line runs from the wall to the toilet tank. There should be a valve on the wall end of this line. Test it the same way.
  3. For the dishwasher: the supply shutoff is typically under the kitchen sink. Identify which valve it is.
  4. For the washing machine: there should be two valves (hot and cold) at the hose connection on the wall. Test both.
  5. Any valve that is stiff, won't close, or leaks when operated should be flagged for replacement.

Record your findings: - Any fixture shutoffs that need service: __ - Any locations where a fixture shutoff is missing entirely: __