Chapter 13 — Quiz
Twenty-six questions to check that you can read and shape the free light around you. Mix of multiple choice, true/false with justification, short answer, and "what's wrong with this shot?" perception questions. Answer from memory first; the key with explanations and a review map is at the end.
Part 1 — Multiple choice
1. Your first job when you walk into a location to shoot is to: - A) Decide where to set up your lights - B) Read the existing light's direction, quality, and color, and choose where to stand the subject - C) Set the camera to auto white balance so it adapts - D) Find the nearest power outlet
2. A window works so well as a natural key mainly because it is: - A) Small and far, therefore hard - B) Always exactly 5600K - C) Large and near the subject, therefore soft, and from one wall, therefore directional - D) Brighter than any lamp you could buy
3. To use window light well, you should seat your subject: - A) Facing the window with the camera behind them - B) With the window directly behind them - C) Beside the window, turned roughly 45° toward the glass - D) As far from the window as possible for even light
4. Golden hour light is warm because: - A) The sun is physically hotter at sunset - B) Low sun travels through more atmosphere, which scatters away the blue and leaves warm tones - C) Cameras add warmth automatically at that time - D) The sky reflects orange onto the subject
5. The golden-hour role that solves the squinting problem is using the sun as a: - A) Front key - B) Top light - C) Backlight / rim - D) Fill
6. Overcast daylight is soft because: - A) Clouds are grey - B) The whole sky becomes the source, making it enormous relative to the subject - C) There is less total light - D) The color temperature is lower
7. Open shade often renders skin faintly blue because: - A) The camera is broken - B) The subject is lit by cool blue skylight (~7000–8000K) rather than the warm sun, and white balance was left on a daylight setting - C) Shade is always underexposed - D) Blue light travels farther
8. Negative fill means: - A) Adding a blue gel to the fill light - B) Underexposing the whole shot - C) Placing a dark surface near the shadow side to subtract ambient light and deepen the shadow - D) Turning the fill light off in three-point lighting
9. On a flat, overcast day your subject's face looks shapeless. The correct move is usually to: - A) Add more light with a bounce - B) Subtract light with a flag / negative fill to restore contrast - C) Increase the ISO - D) Switch to a longer lens
10. Mixed light is a scene lit by: - A) Two lights of the same color - B) A light and a reflector - C) Two or more sources of different color temperature at once - D) Only natural light
11. In a room with a cool window and warm tungsten lamps, leaving the camera on auto white balance is dangerous mainly because: - A) It drains the battery - B) It picks a different compromise per shot, so your coverage won't match - C) It always makes faces green - D) It overexposes the window
12. The most naturalistic way to handle a motivated mixed-light room (window + visible warm lamps) is usually to: - A) Kill the window - B) Balance for the window key and let the warm practicals glow warm on purpose - C) Set white balance to a random middle value - D) Add a colored gel to the lens
13. You can read whether a source is hard or soft most reliably by looking at: - A) The brightness of the source - B) The color of the light - C) The edge of the shadow it casts (crisp = hard, feathered = soft) - D) The time of day
14. For a silver versus a white bounce, the silver surface gives a fill that is: - A) Softer and warmer - B) Brighter, more specular, and slightly cooler - C) Identical to white - D) Always the better choice
Part 2 — True / False (justify your answer in one sentence)
15. True or false: You should always add light to fix bad outdoor light; subtracting light is not a real technique.
16. True or false: A north-facing window (northern hemisphere) gives soft, consistent, indirect light all day because it never receives direct sun.
17. True or false: Golden hour lasts a stable two hours, so there is no rush once you arrive.
18. True or false: Setting white balance manually to your key source and locking it is better than auto white balance for a natural-light shoot.
19. True or false: Moving a subject from the middle of open shade to the edge of the shade, facing the open sky, adds direction to otherwise flat light.
20. True or false: The distance between a subject and a window has no effect on the look of the light.
Part 3 — Short answer
21. In one or two sentences, explain the chapter's central principle: what do you actually control when shooting available light, and what do you not control?
22. Name the three things you "read" about available light, in order, and say why direction comes first.
23. List the four ways to handle mixed light. For each, give the trade-off in a few words.
24. You have thirty minutes of golden hour and three shots to capture. Describe your plan and justify the shoot order.
Part 4 — What's wrong with this shot?
25. A described interview: The subject sits at a table with a large bright window filling the frame behind them. Their face is a dark silhouette; the camera's auto-exposure has driven it darker still trying to hold the window. The audio also echoes. Name the lighting problem and its fastest fix, and (bonus) the audio problem's likely cause.
26. A described outdoor portrait: Shot at high noon in direct sun. The subject's eyes are lost in dark sockets, there's a hard black shadow under the nose and chin, and they're squinting. The color looks fine. Name every lighting problem and prescribe a fix for each, using only this chapter's free tools.
Answer Key
Reveal answers and explanations
**1. B.** Available-light shooting is *reading and positioning*, not setting up lights. Read direction, quality, color; then choose where the subject stands. (§13.1) **2. C.** Large + near = soft; from one wall = directional. Soft and directional is exactly what a key light should be. (§13.2) **3. C.** Beside the window, ~45° toward it, so it becomes a soft side/three-quarter key. Facing or backing the window causes a silhouette. (§13.2) **4. B.** Low sun passes through more atmosphere, scattering blue and leaving warm ~3000–4000K light. (§13.3) **5. C.** Backlight/rim: the subject faces away from the sun, so no squinting, while the sun edges their hair and separates them. (§13.3) **6. B.** Softness depends on source size relative to subject; an overcast sky is the largest source there is, so it is extremely soft. (§13.4) **7. B.** Shade is lit by blue skylight, not the warm sun; on a daylight white-balance setting, skin renders blue. Set the shade/cloudy WB (~7000K). (§13.4) **8. C.** Negative fill subtracts — a dark surface by the shadow side absorbs ambient light and deepens the shadow to restore shape. (§13.5) **9. B.** Overcast light is already soft and everywhere; the face has too much fill and no shape. Subtract with negative fill. (§13.5) **10. C.** Two or more different color temperatures at once (classically cool daylight + warm tungsten). (§13.6) **11. B.** Auto WB hunts for a compromise per shot, so nothing matches — a matching nightmare in the edit. (§13.6) **12. B.** Balance for the key (the window) and let the motivated warm practicals glow — the cozy, filmic, honest look. (§13.6) **13. C.** Read hardness off the shadow's *edge*: crisp = hard, feathered = soft. Brightness and color don't tell you quality. (§13.1) **14. B.** Silver gives a brighter, more specular, slightly cooler kick; white gives soft, neutral fill. (§13.5) **15. False.** Subtractive lighting (flags / negative fill) is a core outdoor technique — often outdoor light is *too flat*, and removing light restores shape better than adding it. (§13.5) **16. True.** A north-facing window never sees direct sun, so it delivers soft, indirect, consistent skylight all day — the classic painter's "north light." (§13.2) **17. False.** Golden hour is brief (roughly 20–40 usable minutes) *and changing the whole time* — it rewards scouting, pre-rigging, and shooting fast. (§13.3) **18. True.** Manual, locked white balance keeps color consistent shot to shot and preserves warmth (e.g., golden hour); auto WB drifts and "corrects away" the look. (§13.1, §13.3, §13.6) **19. True.** At the edge of the shade, more light arrives from the open side, turning omnidirectional soft light into a directional soft side key. (§13.4) **20. False.** Distance changes falloff and contrast: close to the window is brighter, softer, with faster falloff (higher side-to-side contrast); farther back is dimmer but more even. (§13.2) **21.** You control your *position relative to the light* — where you place the subject and camera, and small shaping tools (bounce, flag, diffusion). You do *not* control the light itself: the sun, the sky, and the window are fixed, so you move everything else. (§13.1) **22.** Direction (front/side/45°/back/top), then quality (hard/soft), then color (kelvin). Direction first because direction is *shape* — it decides whether the face has contour at all; quality and color then refine how that shape is drawn and its mood. (§13.1) **23.** Kill one source (clean but you lose a source); match the sources with gels or new bulbs (keeps both in shot but takes gear/time); embrace it by balancing for the key and letting practicals go warm (naturalistic, but only if motivated); split the difference and correct in post (last resort, least reliable). (§13.6) **24.** Scout the sun's set position in advance; pre-rig and rehearse before the light arrives; shoot the single most important shot *first* while the light is best and repeatable; then the second and third as the light fades, raising ISO / removing ND as needed. Order is driven by golden hour being a depleting, changing resource. (§13.3) **25.** Lighting problem: the subject is backlit by the window (shooting *into* the light), so their face silhouettes and auto-exposure makes it worse. Fastest fix: turn the setup so the window is to the *side* (a soft side key) and expose for the face; or, if the window must stay behind, add light to the subject to compete. Audio bonus: the echo is reverberation from a hard, bare room with the mic too far away — get the mic close and tame the room (Chapters 14–15). (§13.2) **26.** Problems: (a) top light from the overhead sun buries the eyes and puts a hard shadow under the nose/chin; (b) the light is hard (bare sun); (c) squinting from facing bright sun. Fixes with free tools: move the subject into *open shade* at the edge of a building facing the open sky (kills the top-down harshness and the squint), or diffuse the sun overhead with a silk/sheet to soften it; bounce a white card low into the eyes to lift the sockets; set white balance for shade if you moved into shade. (§13.4, §13.5)Topics to review by question
| Questions | Review |
|---|---|
| 1, 13, 21, 22 | §13.1 Reading available light — direction, quality, color, and position |
| 2, 3, 16, 20, 25 | §13.2 Window light |
| 4, 5, 17, 24 | §13.3 Golden hour |
| 6, 7, 19, 26 | §13.4 Overcast and open shade |
| 8, 9, 14, 15, 18 | §13.5 Bounce, flags, and negative fill |
| 10, 11, 12, 23 | §13.6 Mixed light |
If you missed anything in §13.1, re-read it before the others — reading light is the foundation the rest of the chapter builds on. If mixed light (10–12, 23) tripped you up, it leans on color temperature and white balance from Chapter 12 (§12.3); a quick review there will make it click.